Wine in the News--January 30th

There have been a few wine articles of interest published recently:

Eric Asimov of the New York Times writes about America's confounding wine shipping laws in his article, published today, January 30th. This is a must-read for anyone who buys wine on the internet.

Decanter Magazine online published an article about wine consumption in the US yesterday, and how we're quickly overtaking France and Italy in overall wine consumption. We're still way below most European countries in per capita consumption, but it seems Americans are enjoying their vintages more and more as time goes on.

Finally, the Dallas Morning News published picks for their favorite dessert wines yesterday. Dessert wines are always tricky, and the folks at the Dallas Morning News are usually to be trusted.

Wine Word of the Week: Decanter

My good buddy Scriptoress asked a question earlier this week about the volatilization of esters—which makes me think this is a good time to discuss decanting.

Many wines, especially young, “tight”, New World reds, and big Bordeaux and Bordeaux-style wines can benefit much from decanting. In fact, those wines are sometimes even better a day or two after opening. Older wines can benefit from pouring them out, opening up the "nose" by exposing the wine to oxygen, and pouring the wine off the sediment before serving.

When I organized tastings for wine writers, the rule we followed was to open all bottles (even whites) a minimum of one hour before tasting. This will help any weird smells to come off the wine and, in some cases, mellow the taste (especially green tannins). While opening the wine before serving is a good idea, decanting reds is even better.

I’m not a scientist, but this is how I understand the physics of decanting: the more surface are a wine has, the greater the volatilization of esters will be, ergo the better the bouquet (smell). Hence, once a red wine is ready to be served, the more oxygen exposed to the wine, the better.

Sometimes pretty, sometimes pretty weird looking, decanters come in all shapes in sizes—many are designed for specific wines. The picture above is of a pretty standard red wine decanter. Once a bottle of wine is poured in, the wine will only be up to about two to three inches off the bottom of the container--therefore creating much more surface area as opposed to in a bottle. When you pour the wine in, you will also be exposing the wine to oxygen.

Double decanting is another alternative for red wines. One pours out the bottle (exposing the wine to oxygen once) into a decanter or any container, then pours it back into the bottle (exposing it to oxygen for the second time). You can then pop the cork back into the bottle and wait for your friends to arrive with the giant cuts of meat for the barbeque.

NB: Decanter is also a great wine magazine published in the UK—http://www.decanter.com/

A Rosé By Any Other Name…

Call it Blanc de Noir, blush, Vin Gris or Rosé, pink wines are gaining popularity in the U.S. for good reason. Wine neophytes often find blush style wines, like White Zin (the wine craze of the late 1970s) with their uncomplicated structure and high sugar content approachable. Wine enthusiasts find dry Rosé to be refreshing--with depth, character and tannin structure fuller than white wine. From the pinkish orange of a tropical sunset to an intense, near purple, the color of a Rosé will depend on a winemaker’s choices.

Skin Contact
The hue of a Rosé will depend, in most cases, on the length of contact a wine has with the grape skins. For a winemaker who sets out to make a Rosé, the grapes will be crushed, and the juice allowed to sit with the skins for anywhere from an hour to two days. As the tannin of a wine will depend on how long the wine is exposed to grape skins, stems and seeds, the longer a Rosé stays with these materials, the greater the tannins.


Saignée
French for “bleeding”, the saignée method of Rosé creates a wine from the by-product of red wine. Many winemakers choose to create intense red wines—one way to concentrate flavors is to reduce the wine by removing some of the juice during the maceration or fermentation process. The wine removed has tannin, but is still a Rosé wine.

Bubbles!

"Come quickly—I am drinking the stars!"—attributed to Dom Perignon

Usually served at weddings, New Year's Eve and in the occasional mimosa, sparkling wine is unfortunately relegated to "special occasions" in the US. Not so in other countries—Prosecco, Lambrusco and Asti make frequent visits to informal gatherings and the dinner table in Italy, as do Sekt in Germany and Cava in Spain. Refreshing and versatile, sparkling wines from around the world make not only great party wines, but also good everyday wines.

Bubbles
Fermentation is the process by which sugars are converted to alcohol. The sparkle is due to the addition of extra sugar into the bottle (méthode traditionnelle) or in a vat (charmat process) after the first fermentation process. The second fermentation process creates the carbonation.

Sweetness
There are varying degrees of sweetness for sparkling wines, but the four sugar levels terms one should know are Brut, Dry, Sec and Demi-Sec. You'll find "extra" tagged onto these words, but the meanings are as follows:
Brut: bone dry
Dry: the smallest amount of discernable sweetness
Sec: slightly sweet
Demi-Sec: sweet enough to be served as a dessert wine

Color
An oversimplified, but hopefully useful guide to color:
Blanc de Blanc is a sparkling wine made with white grapes (usually Chardonnay).
Blanc de Noirs is a light pink sparkling wine made with red grapes (usually Pinot Noir).
Rosé refers to any “pink” wine. In this case, Rosé can be made with the saignée method, when, after pressing, some wine is bled off after only a short contact with the skins. A sparkling Rosé is a wine that has been through a second fermentation process to create the bubbles.

Opening The Bottle
I've been hit several times by flying sparkling wine corks, so the threat of a wine-related injury is a very real one. The best way to open a sparkling wine bottle is to saber it off, by which a person takes a sharp sword and cuts off the neck of the bottle. This is not an option for most folks, unfortunately—would that we all had swords lying around. The second best method, I've found, is to remove the cage (the wire implement securing the cork), put a dishtowel over the cork, hold the bottle at about ten o’clock, grip the sides of the cork in one hand, with the towel over it, and twist the bottle with the other. The cork should release with a slight pop into the towel, and very little, if any, wine should froth over.

Names
Although many people call all sparkling wines Champagne—this is fallacious and irritating to both Champagne makers and wine enthusiasts. Only wines produced with grapes grown in the particular chalk soil of the Champagne region of France may be called Champagne. "Sparkling wine" is the generic term for all wines with some form of carbonation. Regionally, sparkling wines have different names. Below are some of my favorite sparkling wines, and from whence they come:

Cava, Spain: Cristaline NV Brut Rose, $9. Hailed by eight out of the nine ladies in my book club as "very nice," this is a crisp, refreshing sparkler with notes of strawberry and raspberry and a tiny bit of citrus, with nice clean minerality. A very good bargain and perfect for summer.


Champagne, France: Veuve Clicquot, Yellow Label, Brut, approximately $50. Introduced to me by one of my favorite English professors after thesis presentations, this is an incredibly dry wine, with hard but pleasant minerality--incredibly refreshing. A classic wine and great for celebrations.

Sparkling Wine, Washington, USA—Domaine Ste. Michelle Frizzante, $11. In the future I will probably use the word "girly" often. This is a very girly wine, but also very good. Probably considered Demi-Sec, this wine pairs well with dessert, or if you like sweet wine, on its own. Good for weddings and for your friends who think White Zin is a dry white wine.


Lambrusco, Italy—Riunite, approximately $7. Anyone who has spent some time in Italy or is familiar with Lambrusco is probably horrified that I am listing this wine, but it is easy drinking and sweet. One of the few sparkling reds (aside from sparkling Shiraz, which I have not yet tried), this Lambrusco is inexpensive, girly and rather like soda. There are drier, fuller-bodied Lambruscos, certainly, which I encourage everyone to try when they happen to run across one, but this is a good wine for hanging out with friends and eating pizza.


Prosecco, Italy--Zardetto, NV, approximately $18. A wonderful, crisp sparkler—ever so slightly sweet. I'm told it pairs well with oysters and calamari. I like it with a fresh heirloom tomato, mozzarella and basil salad, lightly dusted with grey sea salt and sprinkled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. It is best enjoyed on a patio, preferably overlooking the sea.


Sekt, Germany-- Schloss Biebrich, approximately $4. Wine from Trader Joe's had to come up eventually. This is a very inexpensive bottle, but it does not actually taste like the sparkling equivalent of two-buck-Chuck. It is probably best classified as sec, but not cloying. If you can convince yourself to open a bottle of bubbles on a Tuesday, for no reason, this is the way to go.

Domaine Ste. Michelle has a great website with simple information about sparkling wine.

Wine Word of the Week: Carbonic Maceration

Ok, actually it's two words, but they're really fun.

Weekly Wine Word(s): Carbonic Maceration

Just say it a few times...let the words roll around in your mouth, much like a Beaujolais Nouveau on a crisp, late November day. But why are these words like a Beaujolais Nouveau, you ask? Why, because carbonic maceration is the way Beaujolais Nouveau is produced!

Beaujolais Nouveau is a red wine, which hails from the (you guessed it) Beaujolais region of France, and is made with the Gamay grape. Purple, sometimes pinkish in color, the wine is fermented for a few weeks (quite a bit less than the standard minimum of a few months with other wines--and that's even before the ageing process begins). In fact, the period between harvesting and the finished product can be less than six weeks! The wine is then officially released on the third Thursday of November--which is probably one of the reasons it is a popular Thanksgiving wine. Also, it pairs nicely with turkey and cranberry sauce.

But carbonic maceration is the secret behind Beaujolais Nouveau. While typical wine making methods call for wine grapes to be pressed after the grapes are harvested--and at this point either then juice will be removed for white wine, or left on the skins and seeds (where one finds the color and tannins) to begin the first fermentation process for red wine--carbonic maceration is unique. The grapes are left intact, where yeasts already present in the grapes begin tiny little fermentation processes inside the grape skins. Some grapes on the bottom of the fermentation tank are inevitably crushed, where they will begin the typical fermentation process, but most of the grapes will remain intact, before they are quickly pressed. The result is a light, very low tannin red wine with bubble gum notes. Seriously. I didn't believe my wine tutor when he told me this, but it actually does taste a bit like bubble gum.

Because Beaujolais Nouveau lacks the tannic structure of most red wines, it doesn't really age, or even keep very well, so you should drink it the year it is produced. It pairs well with Thanksgiving foods, as well as some stews, creamy soups and gamey meats. I like it with cranberry bread, or the classic turkey, cranberry sauce and cream cheese sandwich.

Thank you Wikipedia, for confirming some of my facts: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbonic_maceration

The birds and the bees...and the Merlot

If there's anything more complicated than dating, it's trying to order wine on a date. Oy.

"Does he like me? Will he call?" is nothing compared to "Will this wine go with what she orders? Is this bottle too inexpensive? Should we order by the glass, or an entire bottle?"

Ordering wine at a restaurant can be an impenetrable fog of seemingly archaic ceremonies, so here's a few tips on how to impress your date with your wine knowledge:

Food Pairing
Before you decide on the wine, it will be best to get a sense of what you both will be ordering. If you're dead set on a steak, and your date wants a salad (really ladies, eat something real), then it will probably be best to order wines by the glass. If you're out for a special occasion, or really want to order a bottle to impress your date, it will be best to stick to a light red, like a Pinot Noir or Merlot, which will pair well with red meat, but not utterly overwhelm a salad. If you're planning on a several course meal, you may want to order two bottles: a crisp white (like a Sauvignon Blanc or Semillon--which really does go well with salad) and a red. If you both want fish and/or chicken or red meat, this will be easier--a well-balanced white (again, a Sauvignon Blanc or perhaps a Chardonnay) for white meats, or a Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah (Shiraz) with red.

To Sommelier, or not to Sommelier
Sommeliers are good resources, and are there to help. Undoubtedly in your dining career you will run across the stereotype of the tux-wearing, be-monocled nightmare of wine snobbery, but my experience has been with down-to-earth sommeliers who are genuinely interested in helping you pick a good bottle, not making you feel like dirt. If you're in an establishment of fine dining, keep an eye out for an oval pin on the lapel of the sommelier. This will usually mean he or she is certified by the Court of Master Sommeliers (though it's rare to run across an actual Master Sommelier--there are only about 20-25 in the US), and will usually be well-trained and personable. Most good restaurants will have a wine steward--it's up to you if you want advice, but in most cases you'll win the admiration of your date by asking for an expert opinion. After all, you want him or her to enjoy the wine, right?

The Price
Expect a minimum of a 150% markup on a bottle of wine. One of my favorite wines, ever, is an $11 bottle of Riesling, which I find in restaurants for between $30-35. This makes me kind of sick, but I have to remember that I'm paying for the experience, not so I can drink a bottle of wine at home, alone, in front of Grey's Anatomy. My friend Stephanie, who works in PR for wine companies, told me her guideline is to order the second least expensive bottle on the menu. This is great advice, in my opinion, because you won't look like a complete cheapskate, but you also won't pay out the nose. And usually it's the best value on the list. So, if you're not looking for a particular bottle, try and choose between two or three least expensive.

When the Wine Arrives at the Table
So, you've ordered the bottle...now what? The sommelier or waiter will bring the bottle you ordered to the table. Be warned, if you order wine from your waiter, and the sommelier brings it over, he or she will naturally gravitate to the oldest male in your party--whether you're on a date with a 21 year-old boy, or if you're in a party of ten with your grandfather. Even if you order it, ladies, they will assume the man will want to make the decision. A small bit of sexism--or chivalry, depending on the way you look at it. If you're a lady, and you ordered the wine, hopefully your gracious date will indicate that you are the one who should taste. If he doesn't...well, maybe you'll want to look elsewhere for a boyfriend.

The waiter or sommelier will bring the bottle over to the wine decision-maker for the evening, and present the bottle. Be sure to check that they've brought the right vintage and bottle. If it's fine, say so, and they'll commence opening the bottle. The waiter or sommelier will pour about an inch of wine into the glass of the decision-maker--it is now your job to swirl, smell and sip. If the wine smells and tastes right, tell the wine steward that it's good. They will then pour your companion a glass, then fill yours.

If the wine smells like wet cardboard, let the waiter or sommelier know, nicely, that you think the bottle may be corked. They should take a whiff, and if they agree, they'll get another bottle.

On extremely infrequent occasions the wine steward will disagree with you about the bottle being bad. If you smell wet cardboard, be gentle but firm, and ask for another bottle. Hopefully no one will argue. Remember: not liking a wine is not a good reason to send it back. Chalk it up to experience. Only if a bottle is flawed is it OK to ask for a different bottle.

Wines you can't go wrong with, and what they say about you:

Washington Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon: you're easy going and up-and-coming

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir: fresh and fun

Oregon Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris: down-to-earth

New York (Finger Lakes) Riesling: open to new things

Burgundy: appreciates the finer things in life

Australian Shiraz: enjoys red meat

Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (e.g. Opus One) or Rhone wine (e.g. Chateauneuf-du-Pape): looking for a trophy wife or boy toy

Unless your know your date is fairly well versed in wine and loves "big" red wines, you'll probably be best off ordering a Pinot Noir or Merlot if you're eating red meat. To the untrained palate, a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon will taste like tannic, offensive dirt. Some people love oaked Chardonnay, others (like myself) loathe it with an unparalleled passion. Until you get to know your date's wine tastes, you're best off sticking to another white varietal, like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc.

Just remember, don't be afraid.

The Little Black Dress of Wines

Riesling--the little black dress of wines. Balanced acidity, versatile flavors. Pairs well with foods from Asian cuisine to Russian Baklava.

Of course, like any woman knows, there are many types of little black dresses for many different occasions. Here are their Riesling equivalents:

Modern jersey--clean and structured: Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Eroica Riesling, Washington. Crisp green apple and apricot flavors with a hint of petrol. Food friendly, but excellent on its own. At a slightly higher price point than most domestic Rieslings, this is an excellent option as a hostess gift for a cocktail party.

Vintage chiffon--frothy: King Frosh Sparkling Riesling, Germany. In both brut and sec styles (dry and sweet), this is a fun wine, perfect for celebrations.

Mod, sequined shift--clean lines with a sparkle: Poet's Leap 2006 Riesling, Washington. Lively acidity, this wine has the fruit forwardness of a classic New World wine, but with an Old World touch of minerality.

Lace overlay--girly and fun: Columbia Winery 2006 Ice Wine, Washington. A very sweet wine, a perfect pair for fruit based desserts (peach cobbler, pear tart, etc.)--a great way to end an evening.

Cotton shirt dress--clean and classic: Pacific Rim 2006 Riesling, Washington. A great wine for a summer picnic: an easy drinking wine with stone fruit (peach, apricot) and citrus notes.

First things first...

As a young woman working in the wine industry, I find that people, especially young adults, often clandestinely ask for wine suggestions. Although I am in no way actually qualified to offer in-depth advice (for that, see your local internationally board-certified sommelier), I'm offering this blog for practical hints and tips on finding "your" wines--for anyone who cares to read on.

To begin, three things everyone should know:
1. If you like it, it's a good wine.
2. At wine tastings it's really OK to spit when you're tasting more than two wines. Really.
3. White wine should be served with chicken and fish, red with red meats (beef, lamb, etc.). The latest trend is to throw those rules out the window, but they're really quite good guidelines. Of course there are exceptions (Pinot Noir goes with almost everything), but that's a good place to start if you're having a dinner party or going out to dinner and planning to order wine.

Thank you Lindzilla (http://scriptoress.blogspot.com) for showing me how this is done. You rock.